The first thing I learnt when I entered the world of Aesthetic Medicine was the importance of skincare. Good skincare. Not necessarily "branded" and definitely not expensive. So all the thousands I spent on double cleansing with expensive branded products was a waste of time. My skin was still condemned as a veritable encyclopaedia of Dermatological disease.
That was in early 2006. After some very intensive treatments (mostly Easy TCA peels), my regime is now mostly dependent on skincare, and I rarely do much more to maintain.
So what constitutes medical-grade skincare?
Top of the list: SUNBLOCK! Excessive sun exposure is the biggest cause of premature aging. It damages collagen and stimulates the melanocytes to produce pigmentation. The result: a nice tan when young, but spotty leathery skin when older.
For indoor use, SPF 15-30 is ideal. If prolonged sun exposure is anticipated, then SPF 50 or more, with constant re-application. My personal favourites are Bellewave's UV Smart (SPF 30) and Skin Tech's Mela-Block with HSP. Both are easy to apply, non-greasy and not smelly.
The next most important item is Vitamin A which is able to activate cellular repair. The stronger versions can dry and irritate the skin, so I stick to Differin Gel which keeps the spots away, the comedones under control and gives my skin its daily dose of Vitamin A.
The other antioxidants such as Vitamin C then come in for added skin protection against free radical damage and whitening. My current favourite is the Silk & Vitamin C Powder (Vita White) from La Soie. We've tried so many different types, but the serums are often sticky or smelly, and stability issues mean many brands need refrigeration. Vita C is stable at room temperature. A shake of the powder into any other serum allows easy application onto the face.
Glycolic Acid at low concentrations is useful for gently removing the upper dead layers of skin. This increases skin radiance, reduces congestion plus stimulates new collagen production.
As most of the above products are cream based, plain moisturisers are no longer needed. Hence the term cosmeceuticals-creams with pharmaceutical effects.
Should there be any particular issues that need addressing, additional products are then included. In my case, lightening creams and anti-acne creams are mandatory. When I get older, I'll add in hexapeptides to reduce wrinkling and stem cells to trigger rejuvenation.
I don't really stick to any skincare line. Most of the products I use are from TDF, and this is the brand I prescribe most frequently. Skin Tech is another favourite, as they have great cosmeceuticals. Ultimately, I see it as a mix and match from various sources to get the best combination for any individual. It may seem like a lot initially, but really, it just takes 2 minutes to complete.
